When Gold Rush miners needed durable workwear, a pioneering merchant by the name of Levi Strauss used serge de Nîmes to create a riveted “waist overall” that changed fashion forever. Until the 1950’s the best denim in the world was made in the US, but  manufacturers bought new large looms, replaced indigo with synthetic dyes and began pre washing denim to provide more fabric at a lower price (and quality). Japanese companies bought the old looms and cornered the market for first quality premium denim, called selvage. Pre-50’s vintage jeans had clean edges, deep blue color and so do today’s high-end selvage denim garments.